# jmspicotkl *Raspberry Pi Pico TKL keyboard with oled status display powered by QMK* * Keyboard Maintainer: [Justine Smithies](https://mastodon.bsd.cafe/@justine) ## **BOM** |Item |Count|Example| |:--- |:---:|:---:| |Micro 5Pin Male to USB 2.0 A Female With Screw Panel Mount Cable |1|[Link](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231984473033?hash=item36035a23c9:g:ppYAAOSweBFaqoEh)| |Raspberry Pi Pico |1|[Link](https://thepihut.com/collections/pico/products/raspberry-pi-pico)| |0.96" SSD1306 128x64 Blue |1|[Link](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313603433645?hash=item490438a4ad:g:7cIAAOSwFxlgFY5O)| |1N4148 Diodes |100|[Link](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313646674409?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4906cc71e9:g:kZ8AAOSwxhNhIR6I&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4HNlZhtmMFCOq5AkzQH0g1bp9XaWKNkLGLOiWFiZxlmCq9DjLAMrg2mvwAyB2RHHrE3dDniqW%2BobKu4v26C3tfEyxvQ2PFxOeH2b29ldf5OfLvKByZQTxMN6oRU2uo9crlDv12TqKz3%2Fgx8%2Bp7mJj1xhxXUTjohUxtKXcReOvlKYzMl0mm8w2Ee9CNXhOk6dhgVcm%2FXnX7wU%2BQSw8NeLLqB1UowcjkWe20YgPIaIAmb9q9IOY5xcMTRZiXKsU77FcZD4aGHLpsCFzptt7cWOkYZCqHfl4BTQDhImGcBxoyI%2B%7Ctkp%3ABFBMgMuwqf1f)| |Kailh Box Thick Click Jade or your own preference |90|[Link](https://mechbox.co.uk/collections/switches-packs-of-10/products/novelkeys-x-kailh-box-thick-click-jade-switch-10-switches?variant=40657871274146)| |MX Keycaps of your choice but I recommend WASD --> |87|[Link](https://www.wasdkeyboards.com/87-key-custom-cherry-mx-keycap-set.html)| |Custom made stainless steel plate |1|See the remarks below for info |Everglide Panda GH60 stablizers |1 pack|[Link](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Everglide-Mounted-Stabilizer-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B09C4WRLHK/ref=sr_1_6?crid=B1RT91QW1W2F&keywords=Everglide%2BPanda%2BBlack%2BWhite%2BGold%2BPlated%2BPlate%2BMounted&qid=1648913546&sprefix=everglide%2Bpanda%2Bblack%2Bwhite%2Bgold%2Bplated%2Bplate%2Bmounted%2B%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-6&th=1)| On top of that you'll be a needing: * Soldering iron * Solder wire (anything between 0.5mm to 1.2mm, preferable with lead 'Pb') * Sharp craft knife or wire stripper for cutting sections of insulation out of the wires * Shapie marker ### **Remarks** * My plate was made by using the [Keyboard Layout Editor](http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/) to make my layout then copied and pasted the raw data into the [Builder](http://www.builder.swillkb.com/) so that I could then order my custom made stainless steel plate from Lasergist. * I used wire from cat7 cable to wire the switch matrix and used a sharp craft knife to cut them to length for the rows and the columns. I then placed and marked the sections to have the insultation removed with a shapie marker where they are to be soldered to the switches. Using the knife remove the marked insulation being careful not to cut through the wire. This part can take a while and is quite laborious to be honest so you may want to do this over a few days. # **Build guide** Make example for this keyboard (after setting up your build environment): make jmspicotkl:default Flashing example for this keyboard: just copy the newly created uf2 file onto your Pico once it's in the bootloader. See the [build environment setup](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/getting_started_build_tools) and the [make instructions](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/getting_started_make_guide) for more information. Brand new to QMK? Start with our [Complete Newbs Guide](https://docs.qmk.fm/#/newbs). ## Bootloader Enter the bootloader in 2 ways: * **Bootmagic reset**: Hold down the key at (0,0) in the matrix (usually the top left key or Escape) and plug in the keyboard * **Physical reset button**: Briefly press the button on the back of the PCB - some may have pads you must short instead